Nestled in a pristine valley along the Neretva river is the city of Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina. It is also the home of Solomon Islands very first football professional in Europe, Raphael Ohanua Le’ai.
My family had never met Raphael prior to our trip. For me, everything I knew about him I saw on Youtube as the young teenager stormed onto the Solomon Islands football scene at the 2018 OFC U16 World Cup qualifiers hosted in Honiara. I also watched as he cemented his place with the senior national side at the 2022 OFC World Cup qualifiers.
Sarajevo, resilient in war
Our trip began in Dubrovnik, Croatia. After about 6 hours of driving, we found ourselves in Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia & Herzegovina. We joined thousands of fans to watch the second leg of the semi-final of the Bosnia Cup. This time Sarajevo was hosting FK Velez Mostar. We were all excited when Raphael made a cameo at the end of the game as Velez sealed its place in the final.
The next day, we relived the Siege of Sarajevo while sightseeing in the city! Locals speak of “terrible times” during the siege. The museums in Sarajevo serve a gut-wrenching reminder of the siege. We also saw many buildings with visible shell marks but amidst that dark backdrop we also found lovely people so resilient and welcoming.
Mostar, a tourist’s delight
We met Raphael at our hotel in Mostar the next day. We were unable to meet after the match in Sarajevo and he traveled ahead with the team immediately after the game. Before the night was over we also met Semir and his father Adnan Dizdarevic. On that cool spring night, Adnan revealed the intriguing story of how Raphael came to Mostar.
Outside of training, Raphael and Semir spent every day with us exploring Mostar and learning about each other.
Adnan and his family have taken Raphael under their care.
“You can’t teach speed. Raphael just needs a little bit of time to master the tactical and technical aspects of how we play. But we have seen amazing growth in the last 2 months”.
Adnan Dizdarevic
We were pleasantly surprised when fans stopped and asked Raphael for selfies. He happily obliged and soon the two young men walk away happy. Some say hello, others share a hi-five or simply wave.
At a local restaurant, our waiter excitedly talked to Raphael offering encouragement. Then as we left, he shook his head and sighed “….Rafa is faster then my car!” The locals have also now adopted his famous nickname.
Raphael’s speed and deft touch is electrifying the fans.
On another day a young fan of about 14 shyly approached Raphael, “I just want to say you are amazing. It is amazing that our club has someone from your country playing for us. It’s amazing! I am so happy for you.”
Raphael lives in the heart of the old town, home to the Red Army, a legion of fans who by day serve tourists and who, on match days, descend on Stadion Rodeni in droves. There is graffiti on the walls paying homage to the Red Army and its intrinsic value to the club and city.
Fans, both in Solomon Islands and in Mostar, will have to be patient as Raphael’s journey has only started. But he is already embracing the life of a professional football player. He is dedicated to his craft. He is on time, dresses well, pays attention and delivers on everything his coaches ask. Personality-wise, he is a mild-mannered, soft-spoken boy who is such a delight to be around.
The local derby
The local derby was a preview of the cup final on May 17 where Velez had hoped to defend the Bosnia Cup and have another shot at UEFA competitions. It was not to be as cross-town rivals HSK Zrinjski won the final claiming a double for the season. If it is of any comfort most fans still remind everyone, “Since 1922 we are the only Bosnian club to beat Borussia Dortmund!”
Its an hour before the derby and the riot police have arrived. A fire squad joins soon after. They are here to maintain peace – this rivalry runs deep. It has history, it is not just a football match – it is a party, a war – of David vs Goliath proportions.
The HSK Zrinjski Ultras arrive midway into the game. They are escorted to their designated place in the stadium. As they unfurled their flags and start chanting, the Red Army leads the entire stadium in a rebuttal! Flares and crackers are thrown. There is a sizzle then a boom, sometimes within seconds. It keeps everyone on their toes and drives the volume up even more!
Raphael did not feature in the game and a costly defensive blunder saw Velez lose 1-0. But there is still optimism. “We lost a few players and the club felt we were in danger of being relegated but we will most likely finish in the middle of the table.” Adnan says. But he is more annoyed that Raphael did not play – his wife had also called to say she felt Raphael could have made a difference.
“Bro, [sounding like a typical Solomon Islander] Zrinjski is a rich club and they buy the best players. But we have a chance to play in Europe.”
When and if they go there, Semir will be flying his Solomon Islands flag for Raphael.
“There are 3 children in our family. My sister who studying in Sarajevo, Rafa and me!”
There is laughter and muted skepticism but Semir is serious “no really. Now Rafa is my brother” and there is no doubt the 14 year old and Raphael share a bond. Both are learning a lot about each other and their respective cultures!
Semir is a keen observer and within a few days of listening to us talk, he can follow a conversation in pidgin. “I really want to go to the Solomon Islands. I hope one day I will.” His father shares the same dream.
One night as two solitary silhouettes walked away into the night, one turns and shouts “Usu nadi!” It’s Semir, already conversant in Kwaio pleasantries.
Raphael’s professional football journey may have just begun but he has already found another brother. That bond will last a lifetime. It will outlive Raphael’s career. Humanity triumphs, every time.